Aeffe announced that the Argentinian designer Adrian Appiolaza who spent two-and-a-half years at Moschino is leaving the company. News broke as the second Ralph Lauren show was about to start in Milan. It’s been argued that Appiolaza didn’t quite understand the irony central to Franco Moschino’s brand, but in these product oriented times, I think it came down more to not formulating the cut and fit and line. A season ago I argued, “he’ll need to work fast at establishing his Moschino look—meaning the line of a jacket or the cut of a pair of pants.” This deep dive into his Appiolaza’s vintage archive is worth another look.
Vogue Runway reviewers Luke Leitch and Tiziana Cardini both saw a lot to like at Ralph Lauren. Says Luke: “Where womenswear, so various and diverse, is often designed to maximize the first impression and the impact of the full look, menswear is a much…
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